In the context of rapid population ageing in Japan – more than 80% of rice farmers are over 65 – and ongoing rural depopulation, these two inspiring gentlemen are on a mission: to protect satoyama culture.
Satoyama designates the landscape between the forested mountains and the valley floor. For centuries, it has sustained local life: small, irregular fields on the slopes; firewood, timber and wild fruits from the forest; and pristine water flowing down from the peaks.
Mr. Sugiura was once an engineer building dams. He did his job with pride, helping create the infrastructure that powered Japan’s economic growth. But dam reservoirs also swallowed entire satoyama valleys and villages. Eventually, he quit and became a farmer to protect the satoyama culture – with no background in agriculture.
Today he pursues maximum sustainability: organic or near-organic cultivation, crop rotation, and the rehabilitation of rice paddies abandoned by ageing farmers with no successors.
Mr. Yamamoto is the 13th-generation owner of Yucho Sake Brewery (founded in 1719!) in Gose (Nara Prefecture), a small town that has seen better days. Starting with his father, Yucho created a successful new brand, “Kaze no Mori,” a sake deeply rooted in its place of origin. Kaze no Mori is the name of a valley that has been producing rice for 1,500 years or more.
Yet for many reasons (more on that in a future post), securing a stable supply of quality sake rice has become a serious headache for brewers.
Together, Mr. Yamamoto and Mr. Sugiura have built a virtuous circle in one of the most beautiful satoyama landscapes in Japan, near the Kaze No Mori small shrine altar:
· high-quality sake rice grown in the valley,
· a new brewing facility located in the middle of the fields,
· circular practices such as recycling sake lees back into agriculture.
Mr. Sugiura gains access to an excellent sake he can also sell under his own name, increasing the value of his harvest and attracting to his farm people from all backgrounds – students and even foreigners seeking a meaningful project.
Mr. Yamamoto gains more stable supply and a powerful “terroir” story for his sake that consumers genuinely love.
Every time I visit them, I come back deeply inspired.
Don’t you? Let me take you to them.