Lessons about finding balance between Nature and human activity, the power of mutual help and the spirit of gratitude:
I have to confess I am often annoyed about the use of the catchy “hidden gem” expression when associated with certain highly visible and well known destinations in 2026 Japan. The Gokayama villages, south of Toyama City in Toyama Prefecture, were “hidden” back in Edo times (1603~1868) because of their geographic remoteness and strategic role in supplying saltpeter (potassium nitrate, a key ingredient of gun powder) to the Maeda clan controlling the Kaga region (Kanazawa). They have been listed as World Heritage site since 1995 though and cannot be considered hidden anymore. Because they are slightly further away and possibly make a slightly less picturesque landscape (by SNS standards) than the neighboring village of Shirakawago, they do not experience the same crowds. Gokayama’s tranquility, as well as the hospitality of its proud inhabitants make the overall visit a real treat. The Iwases own the largest and most luxurious Gassho zukuri (steep thatched roof) house in Gokayama (as cold as others in winter!) and will tell and even sing and dance their story for you. One can feel the strong desire to pass this unique asset to the next generations. A few years ago MM. Nishi and Ishii – whose family house became the folklore Museum of Suganuma village (picture) – shared with me multiple anecdotes about life in Gokayama. It was not easy. As a teenager and young man, after he left the valley, Mr. Ishii was ashamed to reveal where he was coming from. He however subsequently realised the timeless value of Gokayama inhabitants’ wisdom. A gem.
